Art Video Thread Wrapping Body Thread Wrapping Body Video

An aboriginal folk art form, wirework was probably commencement practiced by the Egyptians start around iii,000 BC. By the mid-nineteenth century this lively folk art flourished with the availability of an impressive range of products from kitchen implements to wire fencing. By the 1920's, wire sculpture introduced this medium to the world of fine fine art.

Wire diameter is measured in inches or millimeters as well as in gauges. Gauges range from 0 to effectually 50; the smaller the number, the thicker the wire. For example, a xvi-gauge wire is slightly thinner than a coat hanger, while 30-gauge wire is similar to thread.

• annealed wire: a pliable, durable and like shooting fish in a barrel-to-employ wire for all of your crafting needs. An example is: dark annealed wire.
• armature mesh: a fun, versatile, flexible aluminum platonic for sculpture, model making and craft.
• bead stringing wire: fabricated from multiple strands of incredibly fine diameter stainless steel wire. Its smooth, kink resistant nylon coating provides fantabulous abrasion resistance. Tiger Tail, 1 of the original wires used for bead stringing, actually had an industrial origin. Containing just 3 strands of stainless steel wire, it tends to kink if you lot're non careful. Modernistic bead stringing wires are softer, stronger and more flexible than Tiger Tail, and tin be used for most full general beading designs. Bead stringing wires, now bachelor in multiple colors to enhance your designs, work well for stringing ceramic, drinking glass, metal, stone chaplet, seed beads and freshwater pearls. The greater the number of strands, the softer and more flexible the wire is.
• beading cord: comes in silk or nylon string. Nylon cord is less expensive, but not inferior to, silk. In fact, it is stronger, has less stretch and feels very like to silk. Silk, the traditional stringing material used by beaders for centuries, adds elegance and a natural drape to your designs.
• colored copper wire: consists of a copper core covered with a colored polyurethane blanket. It has a clear nylon overcoat that resists peeling or chipping despite extensive wire working, twisting or bending. Colored copper wire is perfect for wire wrapping, wire forming and dewdrop stringing.
• enamel-covered wire: bendable, nonetheless holds its shape. Information technology'south great for jewelry making, floral pattern and more than!
• memory wire: "remembers" its shape and retains its coil form. A rigid, tempered stainless steel wire bachelor in anklet, bracelet, necklace and ring sizes. And it's corrosion and tarnish resistant.

Pliers are used to curve and shape wire, and usually merely the nearly basic kinds of wire cutters and pliers are needed.
• Round-nose pliers are versatile pliers that are especially practiced for angle wire into smaller round loops or circles, considering the jaw consists of 2 smooth, slender cones. The bore of a finished circumvolve is adamant by where on the cone the wire is wrapped¾nearer the base for a larger circle or toward the tip for a tiny circumvolve. Squeeze the jaws together to see how the gap between the two cones tapers, closing at the tip. Find the spot in the gap that matches the wire thickness to cull the advisable spot for wrapping. One-half-circular pliers are useful for angle wire into broad curves.
• Apartment-nose pliers have a flat smooth surface on the inside of the jaw, making this the tool to use if you want to grip wire without marring information technology. These pliers are likewise good for bending right angles into the wire.
• Concatenation-olfactory organ pliers are similar to apartment-nose pliers, except the flat office of the jaw is finely serrated for a surer grip. Serrated jaws will mar the wire, so be sure to grip the wire only in areas that will eventually be hidden. Sometimes y'all volition use the serrations intentionally to cut some molar in a wire for better hold at crossover points and wire wraps.
• Bent-nose pliers slanted, serrated jaws help y'all work in complicated, hard-to-reach spaces.
• Long-olfactory organ pliers serrated jaws have an extra strong grip and provide easy choice up.
• Twisting pliers and wire cutters brand tight, consequent spirals with minimal effort. The simple one-pull action and automatic return twists wire quickly and easily into a strand that will non unravel. Wire is cut easily with the wire cutter in the center of the pliers
• Diagonal pliers will easily cut through wire upwardly to 1.6mm.
• Nylon jaw pliers, regular and thin-nosed, are coated with a sparse nylon layer and can gently flatten and harden wire without nicking or changing the diameter of the wire. These pliers are also proficient for removing bends and kinks.
• Parallel or channel-type pliers are useful because the jaws open and shut parallel to each other, different ordinary pliers. Although the jaws are smooth, they grip well, because they hold along their length rather than at just i point. These pliers are skillful for straightening aptitude wire or for bending angles.
• Needle-olfactory organ pliers are useful for reaching into difficult places, and are the all-time kind of pliers for working with chicken wire. The more than versatile needle-olfactory organ pliers combines a flat jaw with a rounded outer surface that tapers to a point. Y'all tin use the olfactory organ to open up loops, the jaw for crimping, and the outer surface every bit a form to shape curves and loops.

Wire is a remarkably malleable material. It tin be braided, coiled, twisted, wrapped, corded, woven, crocheted, spiraled, filigreed and fashioned into innumerable wonderful shapes.

twisting wire
Twisting two or more wires together adds strength and creates texture. Soft wires such as copper are the easiest to twist. Harder wires such as galvanized wire require more effort and caution. Letting go of the wires prematurely may cause them to spin dangerously out of control.
The easiest method for twisting wire is with a hand drill, giving you more control over the wire. Showtime with a piece of wire at to the lowest degree three times as long as the desired twisted length, keeping in listen that the tighter the twist, the more wire y'all'll need. Fold the wire in half and wrap it around a table leg or doorknob. If necessary, place some padding between the wire and the doorknob or table leg to protect the surface. Identify a cup hook in the drill, and secure both wire ends to the cup hook. While property the wire taut, slowly plow the drill handle, twisting the wire.

If you lot don't have a manus drill, yous can create your own modified version with a wooden coat hanger that has a revolving wire hook. Cut a slice of wire at least three times as long equally the desired twisted length. Fold the length of wire in one-half and loop it effectually a door handle or other secure point. Wrap both wire ends at least three times around the hanger, on either side of the handle, to secure. Step back until the wire is taut and begin rotating the coat hanger. For an fifty-fifty twist, concur the wire horizontally and don't relax your grip. Twist the wire to the desired caste, taking care not to over twist or the wire may snap. Remove the wire from the drill or door handle and cut both ends.
bones anchor loop
Near wire arts and crafts designs get-go with a basic anchor loop. Grasp the stop of the wire with round-nose pliers, about ane/iv" downward from theend of the nose, keeping a firm grip on the pliers' handles. Create a tight loop by carefully winding the wire effectually the nose of the pliers by either turning the pliers or by pulling the wire around. Remove the loop from the nose of the pliers, and place the looped end between the tips of the pliers, squeezing to flatten out the end.
wrapping wire
When wrapping wire, the core wire should be thicker and harder than the wrapping wire. Ii pieces of the same thickness can exist used, if the wrapping wire is soft enough, copper wire is platonic. When cutting the core wire, get out an extra two-1/2" to grade the winding loop. If you are using long lengths of wire, you may want to coil them beginning so they won't become unmanageable.
Using circular-olfactory organ pliers, brand a loop at the end of the core wire and attach the wrapping wire to this loop. Insert a pencil or chopstick into the loop and use it equally a winder by rotating it with i hand. While winding, use your other hand to tighten and scrunch the wire coils then that the wire is closely wrapped. You can also use apartment chain-nose pliers, taking care non to harm the color coating.
coils
Coils, a commonly used decorative shape, add grace and mode to a pattern, while removing the take chances of abrupt ends.
Closed Coils: Using round-nose pliers, make a small loop at the terminate of the wire. Hold the loop firmly with parallel or aqueduct-type pliers, and keep angle the wire around itself until y'all have a curl of the desired size. Continue adjusting the position of the pliers as y'all work, taking intendance not to mar the wire.

Open Coils: Using circular-nosed pliers, make a small loop at the terminate of the wire. Holding the loop in the pliers, place your thumb against the wire and class a curve, eyeballing the infinite you desire between the rings of the coil. Finally, carefully flatten the roll with parallel (aqueduct-type) pliers.

Flattened Extended Coils: The flattened extended gyre is a quick and easy way to form decorative trim or a structural device such as the side walls of a container.
Wrap the wire several times around a broomstick or dowel to brand a coil. Remove the wire from the broomstick when the coils attain the desired length. Splay out or flatten the loops ane by ane past holding them firmly betwixt your fingers and thumbs, or by squeezing a small group of coils with nylon jaw pliers. Proceed splaying out or squeezing the loops until the whole curlicue has been flattened. The loops will now look more oval than round. You can stretch the ringlet further to open the loops if desired.

tip: Make a length of dimensional coils by wrapping wire around a dowel. Remove the wire from the dowel when they reach desired length. After removing the coiled wire from the dowel, use nylon jaw pliers to tuck the precipitous ends in and to manipulate the coils into any way of shapes.

tip: To slightly separate wire coils evenly, slip the blunt edge of a butter knife betwixt the coils and rotate the knife'due south blade to separate the coils.
scrollwork or ribbon coils
Identify your wire on an anvil or other hard, apartment surface; hammer the length of wire into a flat ribbon shape. Utilise round-nose pliers to shape the wire around the plier's jaw. Adjust the pliers equally necessary, and go on scrolling to form a whorl. Use nylon jaw pliers if incorporating the ringlet into another wire piece.
weaving
Weaving, knitting and lace-making techniques tin can be draw on to brand basketry and textile designs. Fine enameled copper wire is especially suitable for weaving every bit it is soft and pliable, and it comes in a broad range of colors.
1. The simplest mode to weave is by winding wire over and under struts or spokes. To create struts, cut equal lengths of wire and fold them loosely at their halfway points, or points of intersection. Belongings the wires in i hand, adhere a length of wire to the heart and get-go weaving around the wire spokes in an over/nether way, fanning the spokes in a circumvolve equally you go. After going around three times, splice in an additional spoke to get an uneven number, in order to establish the over/under design. Lay a new spoke next to one that is already in the weaving, and as you continue weaving, comprise the new rib into the pattern, spreading the spokes in a uniform circumvolve as you go.
2. For a more closely woven, tidier finish, weave around an even number of struts by passing the wire over each strut and looping information technology back around the wire strut to create a smooth, closely woven surface.
3. Follow the previous technique, merely reverse the weave, this time passing the wire under each strut before looping it back around the wire strut to create ridges in the weave.
loop joins
Loop joins are used for attaching ii pieces of wire together, such equally for a chain. To brand the links of a chain out of wire, you essentially create small figure eights with perpendicular loops. Begin past bending the end of a piece of wire about 1/four" at a 90-degree bending with apartment-nose pliers and form a small loop with the circular-nose pliers. Grasp this loop with the apartment-nose pliers and bend the wire at a 90-degree angle. Cut the wire, leaving nigh 1/4" length if yous measure from the loop. Turn this length into some other loop with the round-nose pliers. Make plenty figure viii links for the length of chain you desire. Join the links by opening and closing the loops with the flat-nose pliers, to go along them circular. Be conscientious that y'all do non unwind the loops.
wire beads
Twist wire into individual circular beads, just every bit if you were winding a ball of yarn. To brand a large wire brawl, take one 24" piece of 18-gauge wire. Make a loop at ane end. Near 1/2" beneath the loop, bend the wire loosely back on itself. Agree onto this part of the wire with the flat-nose pliers. Use your hands to wrap the length of wire around the center post with the loop on it. Continue to wrap the wire, much like the way you would wind a ball of string. If you desire an blusterous ball, wrap loosely. If y'all desire a dense ball, pull the wire tight. Use the flat-nose pliers to help manipulate the wire if needed. The pliers are too useful for belongings onto the ball--yous volition demand to keep shifting where yous are holding the ball as yous wrap it. When the ball is approximately 5/8" in diameter, or the size you want information technology to be, thread the cease of the wire through the middle of the brawl along the heart post and out the opposite finish. Create a loop on the opposite side of the ball from the first loop.
hook and center clasp
For the hook, cutting a 6" piece of wire and bend information technology confronting itself tightly, using flat-nose pliers. With the base of the circular-nose pliers, grade a rounded claw shape about 1/2" from the folded end, keeping the ii pieces of wire side by side. Using the flat-nose pliers, grasp the wire "tails" 3/4" down from the bend of the hook. Bend i tail at a xc-degree angle forward and the other at a 90-degree angle astern. Using i of the tails, wrap effectually the two wires toward the hook, creating a tight coil. You will need to hold the two pieces of wire together with the flat-nose pliers while wrapping. Trim away any backlog wire. Trim the remaining tail to 1/2" and create a loop with the circular-nose pliers. Employ this loop for attaching the concatenation links together.
For a ring to become with the hook, wrap a brusk piece of wire measuring most 2", around the base of the circular-olfactory organ pliers. Go on working the pliers then that you are creating a large circumvolve coil, near 1/4" in diameter. Y'all need to create a split ring that has overlapping ends, similar a key concatenation ring. Remove any backlog wire and tighten the ring with the flat-nose pliers if needed.
tip: To reduce the amount of tweaking on the split ring, make three rotations and then trim the ring downwardly so that the ends overlap only once.
hardening
Wire hardening is the procedure of stiffening the wire to strengthen it and lock in its design by manipulating the wire. Nylon jaw pliers tin gently flatten and harden wire without nicking or changing the diameter of the wire. Two sizes of pliers are available: regular and thin-nosed, for tighter places.
1. Moving the wire gently back and forth several times will result in hardening it. For example, later moving wire loops backwards and forward several times, a noticeable stiffening of the wire occurs, locking in the shape of the design.
2. Another method, hammering, volition (1) harden the wire, (2) flatten the wire, (3) flatten the pattern, and (4) texturize or mark the wire. Hammer with a rubber mallet or the flat end of a chasing hammer